Oren, page 1
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
SMALL PLATES
PITAS
TAHINI
PRESERVED LEMONS
TOMATOES
HERBS
SALADS & GREENS
GRAINS, LEGUMES & PULSES
FISH & SEAFOOD
MEAT
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INDEX
COPYRIGHT PAGE
INTRODUCTION
My love for food started at an early age; I grew up in Tel Aviv, Israel, in an Ashkenazi Jewish family. Ashkenazi Jews are from Central and Eastern Europe, and the food culture is fascinating, with many incredible dishes, but as I got older and experienced the many different food cultures that exist in Tel Aviv, I found myself more drawn to other styles of cooking. Through friends and family, I was introduced to Iraqi, Moroccan, Tunisian and Libyan dishes that have continued to influence the food I create today. As well as this home cooking, I used to love going out to eat. Visiting different restaurants with my dad was a big part of my childhood; sometimes we would go to Kerem HaTeimanim, a district where you can get traditional homestyle Yemenite food – a lot of which was cooked in huge pots over a kerosene light, which is essentially a candle, overnight. The smell was insane – so fragrant and intense; huge pots of rich bone broth filled with offal, grains and beans. Other times we would go to a famous steakhouse called Mi va Mi and sit at the counter in front of an open charcoal grill. They served chopped salad made in front of you, drizzled with copious amounts of tahini, and grilled pork neck stuffed into warm pita.
After I finished my education at the age of eighteen, I had the opportunity for some headspace to think about what I wanted to do next. I quite quickly realised that I wanted to cook for a living. I attended the Tadmor culinary school, which was the only cookery school in Israel back then. At the time, the style of food that was popular in restaurants was very different to the kind of food I cook today; there was a lot of classic French and European cooking. Although my time at the school gave me the fundamentals of cooking and taught me the essential elements of working in a professional kitchen, this style of food didn’t speak to me in the same way as the Mediterranean and Middle Eastern foods I’d loved as a kid. I started working in kitchens immediately, working in a small restaurant in Paris for a year. It was a demanding job of gruelling fifteen-hour days. Although it was an incredible experience to find myself fully immersed in a real French restaurant kitchen, in the end I decided to return to Israel.
I worked in various restaurants in Tel Aviv, gaining experience and learning all the time. It didn’t matter to me which kitchen I was in, or which restaurant – I wanted to absorb all of the knowledge and skill around me, picking up new techniques and discovering how I liked to cook as I went along. It was the food that mattered – as always, it was my safe place, and there was something therapeutic about just focusing on the food, wherever I was.
When I was about twenty-six, I started working at Turkiz, a renowned restaurant in Tel Aviv. I began as a line cook, then graduated to a sous-chef position, and after about eighteen months I became head chef. I was very young, and it was a big responsibility: the restaurant was well-known, and I was in charge of a big kitchen serving 200 covers. This was when I properly started to explore and develop my own style. It wasn’t easy, but I relished the challenge and worked very hard. Eventually, though, I knew I needed to make a big change. So, in 2011, after eight years at Turkiz, I decided to move to the UK.
I started working in a couple of restaurants to get a feel for the food scene. I needed a break from the intensity of a professional kitchen, so decided to take on private cheffing work and consultancy for a while, but ultimately I missed the energy of a restaurant. I began doing a few pop-ups, cooking in cafés and other small venues – and then something clicked. This wasn’t about money or recognition: it was about connecting to the dishes that had first captured my imagination as a child and being able to share the experience with others. I realised that opening my own place was the way to do it – it would give me the chance to connect, build a community and see people eating my food. I kept on with the pop-up gigs, and then I was invited to be a guest chef at a place called Louie Louie in Camberwell, South London. For six months, I travelled there every day from east London. We got a fantastic review in the Guardian from food critic Jay Rayner, and that was a huge boost; it’s unusual for a pop-up to get this kind of national press attention, so I knew I was on the right track.
The food that has always spoken to me, and the food that I cook today, is simple, bold, ingredients-focused and fresh. It’s the food from my home; the food that I grew up with. I’d never thought it would be ‘special’ enough to serve in a restaurant, but my mentality was evolving. I wasn’t a young chef trying to prove something and cook complex, fancy dishes: I just wanted to make real, genuine and tasty food; to return to the basics – but do it better.
I opened Oren in 2019 – which was possibly the worst timing in restaurant history, as we had about four or five months of trade before the first COVID lockdown. But, in that brief time, we had a great response: the restaurant filled up, and the feedback was great. It was a very difficult period, but the positive I’ve taken from it was that we were able to really connect to the community around us. And, as it always has been for me, food once again became a place of safety and comfort, and we were able to offer others the reassurance and joy of delicious food during such an uncertain and challenging time. In a way, the pandemic made the restaurant what it is today – a place for sharing and connection.
The dishes in this book are friendly, easy and accessible – Hake Arayes with Lamb Fat and Spiced Yoghurt, Lamb and Beef Mince Kebabs with Burnt Aubergine and Warm Freekeh Salad with Laben Kishk with Pine Nuts, to name a few – and there are no intimidating techniques or hard-to-find ingredients.
That’s really the joy of food, for me, and now I want to share some of these recipes with you. The dishes in this book are friendly, easy and accessible – there are no intimidating techniques or hard-to-find ingredients. Some of them have been on the menu at the restaurant or at my pop-ups for years; some of them are dishes I cook at home for family and friends; some of them featured on the takeaway menus we developed during lockdown. The most important thing – and I’ll say it again and again throughout the book – is to always try and source the best possible fresh produce you can. This style of cooking is all about the ingredients, so you need to start with the best: fresh, in season and full of flavour.
I hope these recipes will inspire you, and that you too will find a way to connect with others through sharing the joy of simple, fresh, delicious food.
The recipes in this chapter are things that stay on the table for the duration of a meal. They are almost like condiments – they can be eaten with bread, or used to enhance the flavours of other dishes; burnt chilli harissa is amazing smeared on warm pita then piled with lamb and beef kebabs and a dollop of tahini.
You can make all of these dishes in advance and keep them in the refrigerator for a few days, so they can last across several meals and be at the ready to make your table feel that bit more abundant.
LABNEH
Labneh goes with everything: I like to serve it with olive oil and za’atar, and it’s also fantastic served with blinis instead of crème fraîche for a lighter, tangier finish. If you wish, you can opt to use sheep or goat’s milk yoghurt if you like a bit more tang than your average cow’s milk yoghurt.
Makes 1.3 kg (2 lb 4 oz lb)
2.6 kg (5 lb 7 oz) Greek yoghurt
25 g (1 oz) fine sea salt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
za’atar, to garnish
olive oil, to garnish
pine nuts (optional), to garnish
Whisk the ingredients in a bowl then transfer into a muslin cloth. Grab the edges of the cloth and make a knot at the top. Hang the muslin over the kitchen sink and leave to strain for at least 24 hours, or up to 3 days if the temperature isn’t too warm. After this time, half of the liquid should have drained away. Transfer to a sealed container and store in the refrigerator. It will keep for up to 1 week.
Serve with plenty of za’atar and olive oil. I like to also add some pine nuts as a garnish.
ZA’ATAR WITH OLIVE OIL
This recipe is a great way to introduce za’atar into your kitchen. Try to get hold of mountain oregano, and use toasted sesame seeds, as that makes all the difference.
Makes about 250 g (9 oz)
55 g (2 oz) dried wild oregano
50 g (1¾ oz) sumac
165 g (5¾ oz) toasted white sesame seeds
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
Mix all the ingredients together then store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. The za’atar will keep for up to 2 months.
TZATZIKI
In this version of tzatziki, I use labneh rather than yoghurt, which results in a thicker consistency. I like it really garlicky, so if you’re like me then feel free to add more than suggested.
Makes 350 g (12½ oz)
100 g (3½ oz) cucumber, finely diced and squeezed from excess liquids
2 garlic cloves, crushed
juice of ½ lemon
250 g (9 oz) Labneh
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Add the cucumber, garlic and lemon juice to the labneh in a bowl and mix well. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Drizzle with olive oil.
HOUSE PICKLES
These pickles go with everything from salads and meat to wintery stews with beef and beans, and are a great way to cut through heavier flavours. This recipe is for proper fermented pickles, made using salt rather than vinegar. You’ll need to taste them often to check when they’re ready: you’ll know they’re ready because they will taste tangy rather than salty. The timing might vary depending on the climate and the temperature of your home – the process is slower in cold weather.
Makes 3 kg (6 lb 8 oz)
7 litres (1.85 gallons) water
350 g (12 oz) coarse sea salt
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) cauliflower, separated into small florets
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) carrots, peeled and cut into 3 mm (11/16 in)-thick discs
1 large hispi cabbage, cut into thin wedges (stem intact)
8 celery stalks, cut into finger-sized chunks
100 g (3½ oz) mild red chillies, roughly chopped
100 g (3½ oz) garlic (whole cloves, unpeeled)
35 g (1¼ oz) allspice berries
5 bay leaves
150 g (5½ oz) dill
Mix 2 litres (68 fl oz/8½ cups) of the water with the salt in a large pan and bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and leave to cool. Once cool, mix it with the remaining 5 litres (175 fl oz/21½ cups) of water.
Mix all the vegetables, chillies, garlic, allspice berries and bay leaves together. Fill sterilised preserving jars with the vegetable mix. Top up with the brining liquid (prepared earlier) and cover with dill, making sure that everything is submerged in the liquid. Tightly close the lid and let the vegetables ferment at room temperature for 6–8 days. In the cooler months it will take 12–16 days. You’ll know it’s ready when the veggies go from tasting very salty to tasting pleasantly sour. Make sure you taste all the different vegetables, as some might be ready before the others. Once they’re ready, transfer the jars to the refrigerator. They will keep for between 6–8 weeks.
LIBYAN QUICK PICKLES
This Libyan pickle is halfway between a salad and long-fermented pickle. It works well paired with light dishes, such as Hummus and Mejadra with Wild Rice, Speckled Lentils and Yoghurt Tahini.
Makes 1 x 1.5 litre (51 fl oz) Kilner (Mason) jar
1 carrots, peeled and cut into julienne about 15 x 2 cm (16 x ¾ in)
1 cucumbers, cut into julienne about 15 x 2 cm (16 x ¾ in)
½ large kohlrabi, peeled and cut into julienne about 15 x 2 cm (16 x ¾ in)
½ fennel bulb, cut into julienne about 2.5 cm (1 in) wide
¼ cauliflower, separated into small florets
½ fresh green chilli, deseeded and cut into julienne about 15 x 2 cm (16 x ¾ in)
1 sweet red (bell) pepper, deseeded and cut into julienne about 15 x 2 cm (16 x ¾ in)
50 g (1¾ oz) radishes, cut into julienne about 5 mm (¼ in) wide (if using small radishes, just cut in half)
1 garlic clove, bashed
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon olive oil
2½ teaspoon sea salt
Mix all the ingredients together, then place them in a clean 1.5 litre (51 fl oz) Kilner (Mason) jar. Add cold water (about 500 ml/17 fl oz) until all the vegetables are submerged. Tightly seal the jar and place in refrigerator.
The pickles are at their best after a couple of hours, and will last about 3 days in the refrigerator. Best eaten fresh on the day.
PICKLED CUCUMBERS
This is the kind of pickle that I used to eat as a child. It often features in Ashkenazi recipes, which serve traditional Central and Eastern European food, and it works really well with Cholent and Chopped Liver Salad. I like the simplicity of this recipe as it draws upon the quality of the ingredients. It’s best to use small cucumbers.
Makes 3 kg (6 lb 8 oz)
350 g (12 oz) coarse sea salt
7 litres (1.85 gallons) water
3 kg (6 lb 8 oz) cucumbers
100 g (3½ oz) mild red chillies, roughly chopped
100 g (3½ oz) garlic (whole cloves, unpeeled)
35 g (1¼ oz) allspice berries
5 bay leaves
150 g (5½ oz) dill
Mix 2 litres (68 fl oz/8½ cups) of the water with salt in a large pan and bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and leave to cool. Once cool, mix it with the remaining 5 litres (175 fl oz/21½ cups) of water.
Mix all the cucumbers, chillies, garlic, allspice berries and bay leaves together. Fill sterilised preserving jars with the vegetable mix. Top up with the brining liquid (prepared earlier) and cover with dill, making sure that everything is submerged in the liquid. Tightly close the lid and let the vegetables ferment at room temperature for 6–8 days. In the cooler months it will take 12–16 days. You’ll know it’s ready when the veggies go from tasting very salty to tasting pleasantly sour. Make sure you taste all the different vegetables, as some might be ready before the others. Once they’re ready, transfer the jars to the refrigerator. They will keep for between 6–8 weeks.
PILPELCHUMA
This Libyan condiment is based on the famous chraime. It’s almost the Libyan equivalent of a Moroccan harissa, although caraway is the predominant flavour. I think it’s delicious. You can serve it very simply with bread, or add it to any kind of stew – it would pair well with one featuring chickpeas (garbanzos) or beans. You could also rub it on fish and then grill for a spicy, fragrant finish. Experiment with what works for you.
Makes about 150 g (5½ oz)
10 g (¼ oz) sweet paprika
6 g (¼ oz) ground cumin
10 g (¼ oz) caraway seeds, ground
¼ teaspoon hot chilli powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
20 g (¾ oz) garlic cloves, finely chopped
75 ml (2½ fl oz) vegetable oil
25 ml (¾ fl oz) lemon juice
Combine all the ingredients in a bowl then transfer to a clean jar and store in the refrigerator. It will keep for up to 1 week.
CHOPPED EGG SALAD WITH CARAMELISED ONIONS
This is a classic home-style dish in essence, though is a bit of an unusual version, because I have added caramelised onions for sweetness and mustard for a bit of a kick. The fresh oregano rounds it all out. Choose really good-quality free-range eggs – it makes a big difference to the end result.
Serves 2
3 large eggs
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium onions, finely diced
10 g (¼ oz) spring onions (scallions), finely sliced
1 teaspoon smooth Dijon mustard
pinch of freshly ground black pepper
35 g (1¼ oz) mayonnaise
2 g sea salt
1 tablespoon picked oregano leaves
squeeze of lemon juice
sea salt
Place the eggs in a small saucepan, cover with cold water, then bring to the boil and boil for 8–10 minutes. Remove the eggs from the heat and cool under cold running water. Make sure the eggs are cooled down thoroughly otherwise you won’t be able to peel them easily.
Heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan (skillet) over a medium-high heat. Add the onions and fry for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until dark brown and caramelised (but not burnt). Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Peel the eggs and cut them into small dice or grate with a coarse cheese grater into a bowl. Add all the remaining ingredients, including the caramelised onions, and season with lemon juice and salt. The salad will keep in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
FRIED AUBERGINE WITH SWEET RED PEPPERS AND CHILLI
This is a simple recipe, but it’s important to take the time to follow it properly. First, don’t skip the salting step: the extra effort is really worth it to draw out the excess liquid and get the best possible results. Next, make sure you take the time to fry the aubergines (eggplants) properly, working in small batches so you don’t overcrowd the pan. Finally, remember to drain them of excess oil before combining them with the other ingredients. These small steps make such a difference to the final texture. This dish is best served at room temperature rather than piping hot, so let it sit for a little while and allow all those flavours to mingle.
