Oren, page 6
GREEN BEAN SALAD WITH TOMATO PULP AND CHILLI
I’ve used raw vegetables in this recipe that you might be used to seeing cooked – it’s a great way to enjoy those green, fresh flavours that tend to get a bit lost when heated. The secret is to chop the beans very finely, almost spring onion (scallion)-style. The seasoning here is simple but robust, which makes it a great side for almost any dish. I like to serve this salad with bluefin tuna sashimi, and as it works really well with raw fish flavours, but feel free to experiment and find your own pairings.
Serves 4
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) French beans, washed, trimmed and thinly sliced
2 shallots, diced
30 g (1 oz) oregano leaves, picked
juice of 1 lemon
1 red chilli, deseeded and diced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt
5 salad tomatoes
freshly ground black pepper
Place the beans in a mixing bowl, add the shallots, oregano, lemon juice, diced chilli and olive oil. Season with salt. Quarter the tomatoes and scoop out the seeds, keeping the pulp whole. Arrange the bean salad on a plate and dollop the tomato pulp around the plate. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Eat with a spoon.
SMOKED AUBERGINE WITH OLIVE OIL, SHALLOTS AND BASIL
Aubergines (eggplants) are one of my favourite vegetables, and the very best way to prepare them is to scorch them over an open flame, then peel away the burned skin: the smoky flavours infuse the flesh in a way that is just fantastic. You really do need an open flame to achieve this effect – you just don’t get the same result any other way. Be patient, as this process takes some time. And don’t be tempted to skip the draining step, as it’s really key to get rid of any excess water before you season them.
When you’re choosing aubergines, try to find ones that feel quite light in your hand – this means they’ll contain less water and fewer seeds. And they don’t like being kept in the refrigerator in any form. When you make this, serve it on the day and at room temperature.
Serves 3–4 as a starter (appetiser)
2 aubergines (eggplants)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoons lemon juice
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely diced shallots
few picked basil leaves
Grill the aubergines over an open flame (either on a hob or barbecue) for 10–12 minutes, turning them continuously, until the aubergines are scorched on all sides and completely soft. Transfer the aubergines to a tray to cool slightly until you can handle them (the aubergines shouldn’t cool down completely as then they’ll be harder to peel). Peel off the charred skin, cut off the stems and place on a rack or a colander until most of the liquid has drained away. Cut the aubergines in half lengthwise and then into 4 cm (1½ in) chunks. Transfer with a spatula to a serving dish. Drizzle with plenty of olive oil and lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the shallots and basil.
ROASTED BEETROOTS WITH SHERRY VINEGAR AND CHIVES
Here, we are roasting the beetroot (beets) until heavily charred. This adds so much flavour, as they will caramelise deliciously, but it does take time. You’ll need to give them about an hour on a very high heat, but it might take even longer, depending on the size, so keep an eye on them. It’s okay if you can’t get golden beetroots, but do try and get really fresh ones – you want them to be firm rather than soft, ideally with the leaves, as that is a good indicator of their freshness. In the restaurant, I like to top this with some big chunks of feta, roasting it a final time before serving, to turn the feta golden and add a decadent touch.
Serves 4
3 large golden beetroots (beets), washed thoroughly
3 large red beetroots (beets), washed thoroughly
3 tablespoons olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Jerez (sherry) vinegar
4 tablespoons chives, finely chopped, to serve
Preheat the oven to its maximum temperature (roughly 240ºC/430ºF/Gas 9).
Pat the beetroots dry and place on a roasting tray (pan). Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for about 1 hour, or until the beetroots are slightly burnt and tender but not entirely soft. Remove from the oven and leave the beetroots to cool slightly, before peeling the away the skins with your hands. Cut each peeled beetroot into 6 or 8 wedges, depending on their size.
Season the beetroot wedges with salt and pepper, dress with the sherry vinegar and the remaining olive oil, and sprinkle the chives on top.
GRILLED HISPI CABBAGE AND ROMESCO
This is one of the most popular dishes in the restaurant, and we’ve been serving it from day one, whenever hispi cabbages are in season. People favour it over meat and fish dishes as it’s got so much interest and flavour. Hispi has a sweeter taste, and it doesn’t take long to cook. We cook this over a charcoal grill, and it’s important to go to this effort in order to get the best results.
Serves 4 as a side or starter
1 hispi cabbage
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
500 ml (17 fl oz/generous 2 cups) vegetable stock
For the romesco
300 g (10½ oz) (about 3–4) romano peppers
35 g (1¼ oz) confit garlic
30 g (1 oz) toasted blanched almonds
25 ml (¾ fl oz) olive oil
5 g (¼ fl oz) salt
pinch of sweet and smoked paprika
pinch of crushed black pepper
2 teaspoons Jerez (sherry) vinegar
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/gas 6) and prepare a charcoal grill.
To make the romesco, start by roasting the peppers over an open flame (either on the hob or barbecue) until they are burnt all over. Leave them to cool slightly, before peeling them by hand and deseeding them. Then place all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse to a semi coarse consistency. Set aside.
Cut the hispi in half lengthwise. Season with salt and pepper and place cut-side down in a roasting tray (pan). Pour in the vegetable stock and roast in the oven for 15–20 minutes, until just soft. Remove from the stock, which can now be discarded, and let drain. Grill over charcoal for 5–7 minutes until blackened all over. Serve with a dollop of romesco on top.
SCORCHED OKRA WITH OLIVE OIL, FRESH TOMATOES AND LABEN KISHK
The key to delicious okra is to cook it quickly, at a high temperature, so you don’t overcook it. We use a very hot griddle, but you can use a cast-iron pan (skillet). Just make sure you get it really hot before you add the okra. Flash-frying the okra in this way means is still has plenty of bite. Laben kishk is a fermented dried yoghurt, but if you can’t get hold of it, try ricotta salata instead. Choose the smallest okra you can, as they will have the nicest texture.
Serves 2
5–6 extra-virgin olive oil
250 g (9 oz) okra, washed, dried and cut into 1 cm (½ in)-thick rings
2 sivri pepper (mild Turkish pepper), chopped
1 red onion, coarsely diced
1 large tomato, diced
5 sage leaves, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
juice of 1 lemon
10 g (¼ oz) laben kishk or aged ricotta salata, for grating
15 picked mint leaves, roughly chopped
Heat a cast-iron frying pan (skillet) or a plancha over a high heat with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Once the skillet is smoking, add the sliced okra and chillies. Leave for 1–2 minutes until they are lightly charred, then stir-fry for another 1–2 minutes. Add the onion, tomatoes, sage and garlic and cook for another 3–4 minutes. Finish with the remaining 3–4 tablespoons of olive oil, lemon juice, salt and mint. Grate plenty of laben kishk on top. Serve hot.
GRILLED SWEETCORN, FRESH PEAS AND BARREL-AGED FETA
The crunchy smokiness of the corn, the full green flavour of the peas, and the creamy, tangy feta is just delicious. Make this in the summer when the ingredients are at their best.
Serves 2
2 fresh corn on the cob (husks intact)
500 g (1 lb) peas, freshly podded
½ red onion, diced
20 ml (¾ fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
juice of ½ lemon
2 tablespoons picked oregano leaves
100 g (3½ oz) barrel-aged feta
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat a charcoal grill.
Grill the corn on the hot grill for 15 minutes, turning the corn so they blacken evenly. Carefully remove the husks then continue grilling the corn without the husk for 3–4 minutes, turning the cobs so they brown evenly. Remove from the grill and let the corn cool down, then remove the kernels from the cob with a sharp knife.
Prepare a bowl of iced water. Cook the peas in a pan of salted boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain and transfer to the iced water. Drain the peas from the iced water, then warm through in a sauté pan with the corn for 3–4 minutes with a little oil.
Once the peas and corn are hot, transfer to a mixing bowl and add the onion, olive oil, lemon juice and oregano, and season with salt and pepper. Crumble the feta over the dish and serve warm.
BUTTER LETTUCE WITH SEASONAL VEGETABLES AND ZA’ATAR
This all-season fresh salad is great as part of a brunch spread, as it pairs really well with a quiche or eggs. Use the best cucumbers, tomatoes and pepper you can find – this is one of those recipes where you really want to let the ingredients speak for themselves. The za’atar adds interest and gives it a slightly different kick – citrussy and tangy.
Serves 4
2 whole butter (bibb) lettuce, stem removed and outer leaves discarded
2 mini cucumbers (7–8 cm/2¾–3¼ in long), cut into large 4 cm (1½ in) chunks
4 plum tomatoes, cut into large 4 cm (1½ in) chunks
1 sweet red (bell) pepper, deseeded and cut into large 4 cm (1½ in) chunks
½ red onion, coarsely diced
2 tablespoons lemon juice
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Za’atar
Place the white leaves of the butter lettuce in a bowl of iced water for 10 minutes, then remove and dry in a salad spinner or pat dry gently with paper towel.
Place the cubed vegetables in a mixing bowl. Add the lettuce. Add the lemon juice and olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss gently. Sprinkle with the za’atar and serve.
CHOPPED SALAD
You’ll find this dish almost everywhere in Israel. Some places call it Israeli salad, some call it Arab salad – I just call it chopped salad. As a kid, I used to love going to restaurants with my dad. We’d sit at the bar and watch the chefs chopping the fresh ingredients for this salad right in front of us, and I used to dream of opening a place devoted to a truly delicious chopped salad prepared freshly in front of customers. As ever, get the best tomatoes and cucumbers you can find – you don’t want to make this dish with hard-skinned cucumbers that taste watery and bland. Seasoning is key, as is straining the tomatoes before you add them to the salad. This really is an all-day dish – I enjoy it for breakfast with a boiled egg and tahini, then have it on the table at lunch or dinner as part of a spread of other vegetable and meat dishes. It pairs deliciously with fish, but could also be a meal in itself.
Serves 2
5 good-quality, ripe tomatoes, cut into 2–3 mm (1/16–⅛ in) dice
3 mini cucumbers (Turkish or Greek style), cut into 2–3 mm (1/16–⅛ in) dice
½ white onion, cut into 2–3 mm (1/16–⅛ in) dice
30 g (1 oz) flat-leaf parsley, chopped and stalks discarded
15 g (½ oz) mint, chopped and stalks discarded
25 ml (¾ fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
25 ml (¾ fl oz) lemon juice
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
100 g (3½ oz) Classic Tahini or shop-bought, to serve
Place the diced tomatoes in a sieve or colander to drain the excess water. Combine everything in a mixing bowl and season with salt and pepper. Mix gently with a spoon. Pile into a bowl and serve with the tahini on the top.
Grains and pulses are on the table at every meal; lentils, cracked wheat, butter beans, wild rice, freekeh and chickpeas are so much a part of the cuisine. If there are ten to twelve dishes on a table, then at least four of them will include grains. And this isn’t just at home – they are served in restaurants and as part of street-food dishes, too. Here, I’ve included some of my favourite ways to cook them.
BAKED BUTTER BEANS WITH BARREL-AGED FETA AND SLOW-ROAST TOMATOES
Baking the beans in white wine, garlic and herbs results in rich, tasty juices, while the grilled feta topping adds a tangy, indulgent finish. It’s important to use a generous amount of really good feta here. At the restaurant, we serve it in individual dishes, but you can make it in a big dish and place it in the middle of the table along with some crusty sourdough bread so that everyone can dive in.
Serves 8 as a starter or side
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) dried butter (lima) beans, soaked in plenty of water for 24 hours
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) dry white wine
8 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
10 g (¼ oz) thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
Slow-roast Tomatoes
200 g (7 oz) barrel-aged feta
25 ml (¾ fl oz) olive oil
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/gas 4).
Drain and rinse the butter beans and place them in a deep roasting tray (pan). Add the rest of the ingredients, except the feta and olive oil, to the tray and mix well with your hands. Add enough water so that the beans are submerged – the water level needs to sit about 2 cm (¾ in) above the beans. Cover the tray with aluminium foil and seal tightly. Bake in the oven for 2–3 hours, until the beans are thoroughly cooked and half of the liquid has been absorbed by the beans. If a lot of liquid remains, then transfer the beans to a stockpot and reduce over a medium heat by half. Preheat the oven grill. Crumble the feta over the beans, drizzle the beans with the olive oil and place under the hot grill until the cheese has turned golden. Serve straight from the oven.
FUL MEDAMES – SLOW-COOKED BROAD BEANS WITH LEMON, CHILLI AND TAHINI
This is a classic Egyptian dish. Served warm, it’s made up of split broad (fava) beans, slow-cooked with spices until they’re very soft and almost entirely broken down – the final texture is creamy. The ratio of liquid to beans is important, so you need to keep an eye on the beans as they cook and make sure that the mixture doesn’t dry out. Top with tahini and lemon to finish and serve with a pita. In Tel Aviv, you would find ful served as a breakfast food alongside hummus, and it does make a great brunch option topped with an egg.
Serves 5–6
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) dried broad (fava) beans, soaked in plenty of water for 24 hours
25 ml (¾ oz) olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
5 garlic cloves, peeled
100 g (3½ oz) Classic Tahini or shop-bought
1 tablespoon lemon juice
sea salt
For the chilli paste
5 green mild chillies
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons lemon juice
To serve
1 tablespoon finely chopped white onions per person
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
Start by making the chilli paste, by putting the ingredients in a food processor and blending until they are a coarse paste.
Drain the beans and rinse well. Place in a large stockpot and fill with water until the water level sits 3 cm (1¼ in) above the beans. Add the olive oil and garlic, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 2 hours, or until the beans are completely falling apart. The beans should almost be a paste-like consistency so you might need to add a bit more water to reach this consistency. Once the beans are nice and creamy, scoop 2 large spoonfuls of the ful into a bowl. Top with a spoonful of tahini, plenty of olive oil and a little lemon juice. Season with salt to taste.
Serve with chopped onions and parsley on the side.
MEJADRA WITH WILD RICE, SPECKLED LENTILS AND TAHINI YOGHURT
This is a classic Arab dish and a favourite recipe of mine. I’ve spent years playing around with the components, arriving at something that differs slightly from the traditional approach of cooking it all together: here, everything is cooked separately which helps to achieve a good result. Be sure to use a good-quality long-grain rice that isn’t going to fall apart. Mejadra is great on its own, but I like to serve it with yoghurt and tahini. The onions are a key element here – cooked slowly until really brown and sweetly caramelised, they bring the dish together, while the toasted flaked almonds add a crunchy finish.
Serves 4–6 as a side
vegetable oil
150 g (5½ oz/¾ cup) basmati rice
75 g (2¾ oz/⅓ cup) wild rice
150 g (5½ oz) beluga lentils or Puy lentils
1 garlic clove, peeled
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) finely diced onions (weight after they have been peeled)
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
pinch of ground cumin
100 g (3½ oz) Greek yoghurt
I’ve used raw vegetables in this recipe that you might be used to seeing cooked – it’s a great way to enjoy those green, fresh flavours that tend to get a bit lost when heated. The secret is to chop the beans very finely, almost spring onion (scallion)-style. The seasoning here is simple but robust, which makes it a great side for almost any dish. I like to serve this salad with bluefin tuna sashimi, and as it works really well with raw fish flavours, but feel free to experiment and find your own pairings.
Serves 4
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) French beans, washed, trimmed and thinly sliced
2 shallots, diced
30 g (1 oz) oregano leaves, picked
juice of 1 lemon
1 red chilli, deseeded and diced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt
5 salad tomatoes
freshly ground black pepper
Place the beans in a mixing bowl, add the shallots, oregano, lemon juice, diced chilli and olive oil. Season with salt. Quarter the tomatoes and scoop out the seeds, keeping the pulp whole. Arrange the bean salad on a plate and dollop the tomato pulp around the plate. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Eat with a spoon.
SMOKED AUBERGINE WITH OLIVE OIL, SHALLOTS AND BASIL
Aubergines (eggplants) are one of my favourite vegetables, and the very best way to prepare them is to scorch them over an open flame, then peel away the burned skin: the smoky flavours infuse the flesh in a way that is just fantastic. You really do need an open flame to achieve this effect – you just don’t get the same result any other way. Be patient, as this process takes some time. And don’t be tempted to skip the draining step, as it’s really key to get rid of any excess water before you season them.
When you’re choosing aubergines, try to find ones that feel quite light in your hand – this means they’ll contain less water and fewer seeds. And they don’t like being kept in the refrigerator in any form. When you make this, serve it on the day and at room temperature.
Serves 3–4 as a starter (appetiser)
2 aubergines (eggplants)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoons lemon juice
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely diced shallots
few picked basil leaves
Grill the aubergines over an open flame (either on a hob or barbecue) for 10–12 minutes, turning them continuously, until the aubergines are scorched on all sides and completely soft. Transfer the aubergines to a tray to cool slightly until you can handle them (the aubergines shouldn’t cool down completely as then they’ll be harder to peel). Peel off the charred skin, cut off the stems and place on a rack or a colander until most of the liquid has drained away. Cut the aubergines in half lengthwise and then into 4 cm (1½ in) chunks. Transfer with a spatula to a serving dish. Drizzle with plenty of olive oil and lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the shallots and basil.
ROASTED BEETROOTS WITH SHERRY VINEGAR AND CHIVES
Here, we are roasting the beetroot (beets) until heavily charred. This adds so much flavour, as they will caramelise deliciously, but it does take time. You’ll need to give them about an hour on a very high heat, but it might take even longer, depending on the size, so keep an eye on them. It’s okay if you can’t get golden beetroots, but do try and get really fresh ones – you want them to be firm rather than soft, ideally with the leaves, as that is a good indicator of their freshness. In the restaurant, I like to top this with some big chunks of feta, roasting it a final time before serving, to turn the feta golden and add a decadent touch.
Serves 4
3 large golden beetroots (beets), washed thoroughly
3 large red beetroots (beets), washed thoroughly
3 tablespoons olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Jerez (sherry) vinegar
4 tablespoons chives, finely chopped, to serve
Preheat the oven to its maximum temperature (roughly 240ºC/430ºF/Gas 9).
Pat the beetroots dry and place on a roasting tray (pan). Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for about 1 hour, or until the beetroots are slightly burnt and tender but not entirely soft. Remove from the oven and leave the beetroots to cool slightly, before peeling the away the skins with your hands. Cut each peeled beetroot into 6 or 8 wedges, depending on their size.
Season the beetroot wedges with salt and pepper, dress with the sherry vinegar and the remaining olive oil, and sprinkle the chives on top.
GRILLED HISPI CABBAGE AND ROMESCO
This is one of the most popular dishes in the restaurant, and we’ve been serving it from day one, whenever hispi cabbages are in season. People favour it over meat and fish dishes as it’s got so much interest and flavour. Hispi has a sweeter taste, and it doesn’t take long to cook. We cook this over a charcoal grill, and it’s important to go to this effort in order to get the best results.
Serves 4 as a side or starter
1 hispi cabbage
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
500 ml (17 fl oz/generous 2 cups) vegetable stock
For the romesco
300 g (10½ oz) (about 3–4) romano peppers
35 g (1¼ oz) confit garlic
30 g (1 oz) toasted blanched almonds
25 ml (¾ fl oz) olive oil
5 g (¼ fl oz) salt
pinch of sweet and smoked paprika
pinch of crushed black pepper
2 teaspoons Jerez (sherry) vinegar
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/gas 6) and prepare a charcoal grill.
To make the romesco, start by roasting the peppers over an open flame (either on the hob or barbecue) until they are burnt all over. Leave them to cool slightly, before peeling them by hand and deseeding them. Then place all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse to a semi coarse consistency. Set aside.
Cut the hispi in half lengthwise. Season with salt and pepper and place cut-side down in a roasting tray (pan). Pour in the vegetable stock and roast in the oven for 15–20 minutes, until just soft. Remove from the stock, which can now be discarded, and let drain. Grill over charcoal for 5–7 minutes until blackened all over. Serve with a dollop of romesco on top.
SCORCHED OKRA WITH OLIVE OIL, FRESH TOMATOES AND LABEN KISHK
The key to delicious okra is to cook it quickly, at a high temperature, so you don’t overcook it. We use a very hot griddle, but you can use a cast-iron pan (skillet). Just make sure you get it really hot before you add the okra. Flash-frying the okra in this way means is still has plenty of bite. Laben kishk is a fermented dried yoghurt, but if you can’t get hold of it, try ricotta salata instead. Choose the smallest okra you can, as they will have the nicest texture.
Serves 2
5–6 extra-virgin olive oil
250 g (9 oz) okra, washed, dried and cut into 1 cm (½ in)-thick rings
2 sivri pepper (mild Turkish pepper), chopped
1 red onion, coarsely diced
1 large tomato, diced
5 sage leaves, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
juice of 1 lemon
10 g (¼ oz) laben kishk or aged ricotta salata, for grating
15 picked mint leaves, roughly chopped
Heat a cast-iron frying pan (skillet) or a plancha over a high heat with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Once the skillet is smoking, add the sliced okra and chillies. Leave for 1–2 minutes until they are lightly charred, then stir-fry for another 1–2 minutes. Add the onion, tomatoes, sage and garlic and cook for another 3–4 minutes. Finish with the remaining 3–4 tablespoons of olive oil, lemon juice, salt and mint. Grate plenty of laben kishk on top. Serve hot.
GRILLED SWEETCORN, FRESH PEAS AND BARREL-AGED FETA
The crunchy smokiness of the corn, the full green flavour of the peas, and the creamy, tangy feta is just delicious. Make this in the summer when the ingredients are at their best.
Serves 2
2 fresh corn on the cob (husks intact)
500 g (1 lb) peas, freshly podded
½ red onion, diced
20 ml (¾ fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
juice of ½ lemon
2 tablespoons picked oregano leaves
100 g (3½ oz) barrel-aged feta
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat a charcoal grill.
Grill the corn on the hot grill for 15 minutes, turning the corn so they blacken evenly. Carefully remove the husks then continue grilling the corn without the husk for 3–4 minutes, turning the cobs so they brown evenly. Remove from the grill and let the corn cool down, then remove the kernels from the cob with a sharp knife.
Prepare a bowl of iced water. Cook the peas in a pan of salted boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain and transfer to the iced water. Drain the peas from the iced water, then warm through in a sauté pan with the corn for 3–4 minutes with a little oil.
Once the peas and corn are hot, transfer to a mixing bowl and add the onion, olive oil, lemon juice and oregano, and season with salt and pepper. Crumble the feta over the dish and serve warm.
BUTTER LETTUCE WITH SEASONAL VEGETABLES AND ZA’ATAR
This all-season fresh salad is great as part of a brunch spread, as it pairs really well with a quiche or eggs. Use the best cucumbers, tomatoes and pepper you can find – this is one of those recipes where you really want to let the ingredients speak for themselves. The za’atar adds interest and gives it a slightly different kick – citrussy and tangy.
Serves 4
2 whole butter (bibb) lettuce, stem removed and outer leaves discarded
2 mini cucumbers (7–8 cm/2¾–3¼ in long), cut into large 4 cm (1½ in) chunks
4 plum tomatoes, cut into large 4 cm (1½ in) chunks
1 sweet red (bell) pepper, deseeded and cut into large 4 cm (1½ in) chunks
½ red onion, coarsely diced
2 tablespoons lemon juice
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Za’atar
Place the white leaves of the butter lettuce in a bowl of iced water for 10 minutes, then remove and dry in a salad spinner or pat dry gently with paper towel.
Place the cubed vegetables in a mixing bowl. Add the lettuce. Add the lemon juice and olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss gently. Sprinkle with the za’atar and serve.
CHOPPED SALAD
You’ll find this dish almost everywhere in Israel. Some places call it Israeli salad, some call it Arab salad – I just call it chopped salad. As a kid, I used to love going to restaurants with my dad. We’d sit at the bar and watch the chefs chopping the fresh ingredients for this salad right in front of us, and I used to dream of opening a place devoted to a truly delicious chopped salad prepared freshly in front of customers. As ever, get the best tomatoes and cucumbers you can find – you don’t want to make this dish with hard-skinned cucumbers that taste watery and bland. Seasoning is key, as is straining the tomatoes before you add them to the salad. This really is an all-day dish – I enjoy it for breakfast with a boiled egg and tahini, then have it on the table at lunch or dinner as part of a spread of other vegetable and meat dishes. It pairs deliciously with fish, but could also be a meal in itself.
Serves 2
5 good-quality, ripe tomatoes, cut into 2–3 mm (1/16–⅛ in) dice
3 mini cucumbers (Turkish or Greek style), cut into 2–3 mm (1/16–⅛ in) dice
½ white onion, cut into 2–3 mm (1/16–⅛ in) dice
30 g (1 oz) flat-leaf parsley, chopped and stalks discarded
15 g (½ oz) mint, chopped and stalks discarded
25 ml (¾ fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil
25 ml (¾ fl oz) lemon juice
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
100 g (3½ oz) Classic Tahini or shop-bought, to serve
Place the diced tomatoes in a sieve or colander to drain the excess water. Combine everything in a mixing bowl and season with salt and pepper. Mix gently with a spoon. Pile into a bowl and serve with the tahini on the top.
Grains and pulses are on the table at every meal; lentils, cracked wheat, butter beans, wild rice, freekeh and chickpeas are so much a part of the cuisine. If there are ten to twelve dishes on a table, then at least four of them will include grains. And this isn’t just at home – they are served in restaurants and as part of street-food dishes, too. Here, I’ve included some of my favourite ways to cook them.
BAKED BUTTER BEANS WITH BARREL-AGED FETA AND SLOW-ROAST TOMATOES
Baking the beans in white wine, garlic and herbs results in rich, tasty juices, while the grilled feta topping adds a tangy, indulgent finish. It’s important to use a generous amount of really good feta here. At the restaurant, we serve it in individual dishes, but you can make it in a big dish and place it in the middle of the table along with some crusty sourdough bread so that everyone can dive in.
Serves 8 as a starter or side
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) dried butter (lima) beans, soaked in plenty of water for 24 hours
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) dry white wine
8 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
10 g (¼ oz) thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
Slow-roast Tomatoes
200 g (7 oz) barrel-aged feta
25 ml (¾ fl oz) olive oil
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/gas 4).
Drain and rinse the butter beans and place them in a deep roasting tray (pan). Add the rest of the ingredients, except the feta and olive oil, to the tray and mix well with your hands. Add enough water so that the beans are submerged – the water level needs to sit about 2 cm (¾ in) above the beans. Cover the tray with aluminium foil and seal tightly. Bake in the oven for 2–3 hours, until the beans are thoroughly cooked and half of the liquid has been absorbed by the beans. If a lot of liquid remains, then transfer the beans to a stockpot and reduce over a medium heat by half. Preheat the oven grill. Crumble the feta over the beans, drizzle the beans with the olive oil and place under the hot grill until the cheese has turned golden. Serve straight from the oven.
FUL MEDAMES – SLOW-COOKED BROAD BEANS WITH LEMON, CHILLI AND TAHINI
This is a classic Egyptian dish. Served warm, it’s made up of split broad (fava) beans, slow-cooked with spices until they’re very soft and almost entirely broken down – the final texture is creamy. The ratio of liquid to beans is important, so you need to keep an eye on the beans as they cook and make sure that the mixture doesn’t dry out. Top with tahini and lemon to finish and serve with a pita. In Tel Aviv, you would find ful served as a breakfast food alongside hummus, and it does make a great brunch option topped with an egg.
Serves 5–6
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) dried broad (fava) beans, soaked in plenty of water for 24 hours
25 ml (¾ oz) olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
5 garlic cloves, peeled
100 g (3½ oz) Classic Tahini or shop-bought
1 tablespoon lemon juice
sea salt
For the chilli paste
5 green mild chillies
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons lemon juice
To serve
1 tablespoon finely chopped white onions per person
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
Start by making the chilli paste, by putting the ingredients in a food processor and blending until they are a coarse paste.
Drain the beans and rinse well. Place in a large stockpot and fill with water until the water level sits 3 cm (1¼ in) above the beans. Add the olive oil and garlic, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 2 hours, or until the beans are completely falling apart. The beans should almost be a paste-like consistency so you might need to add a bit more water to reach this consistency. Once the beans are nice and creamy, scoop 2 large spoonfuls of the ful into a bowl. Top with a spoonful of tahini, plenty of olive oil and a little lemon juice. Season with salt to taste.
Serve with chopped onions and parsley on the side.
MEJADRA WITH WILD RICE, SPECKLED LENTILS AND TAHINI YOGHURT
This is a classic Arab dish and a favourite recipe of mine. I’ve spent years playing around with the components, arriving at something that differs slightly from the traditional approach of cooking it all together: here, everything is cooked separately which helps to achieve a good result. Be sure to use a good-quality long-grain rice that isn’t going to fall apart. Mejadra is great on its own, but I like to serve it with yoghurt and tahini. The onions are a key element here – cooked slowly until really brown and sweetly caramelised, they bring the dish together, while the toasted flaked almonds add a crunchy finish.
Serves 4–6 as a side
vegetable oil
150 g (5½ oz/¾ cup) basmati rice
75 g (2¾ oz/⅓ cup) wild rice
150 g (5½ oz) beluga lentils or Puy lentils
1 garlic clove, peeled
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) finely diced onions (weight after they have been peeled)
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
pinch of ground cumin
100 g (3½ oz) Greek yoghurt
